Explore Colombia’s “paramo,” a high-altitude grassland in the coffee region whose flora and fauna look like something out of a sci-fi novel.
Colombia is home to about 60% of the world’s paramo, but the one which kindles the fires of adventure each time I visit is located in the heart of the country, in what’s said to be one of its most scenic national parks. To get there, head towards the shores of Lake Otun in national park Los Nevados, a trek of around 25km. My starting point is the village of La Suiza, in eastern Risaralda, one of the five departments that make up El Eje Cafetero or “Coffee Zone” in the center of the country.
After disembarking the 7AM “chiva” from Transporte La Florida in Pereira one is immediately confronted by thick, sub-Andean cloud forest which covers the mountains and valleys. A little onward from the village the visitors’ center and entrance of the Sanctuary of Flora and Fauna, Otun-Quimbaya appears.
Otun-Quimbaya to Ucumari
Created in 1996 and covering 489 hectares, the park is small in comparison to other national parks, though its high level of biodiversity more than makes up for its size. Home to the Venezuelan red howler monkey and over 300 species of the 400 or so bird types which are found in this region of the Andes, the park is a must for any bird lover or wildlife enthusiast. You have to be pretty unlucky not to see one of the spectacular bird species that inhabit the park. The main success story of the park is the Cauca Guan. A relative of the turkey, the Cauca Guan was on the verge of extinction around the time when the park was created, with the largest population located in the park. Thanks to a vigilant conservation scheme, the bird’s numbers have recovered and are thought to total around 1,000 individuals.
Chances are that whilst walking through the park you’ll hear the guttural howl of the red howler monkey or maybe even bump into a group, and should one be weary, there are species all around, hidden in the trees.
The trek continues on this dirt road past bromeliad-clad walls of green at either side of the road and past Otun-Quimbaya’s outer-limits into PRN (Regional Natural Park) Ucumari. Ucumari (Quechuan for spectacled bear) was formed in 1984 and covers 3986 hectares of pristine sub-Andean cloud forest ranging from 1850 – 2600 meters above sea level. The drop in temperature is obvious (not a problem for us Europeans but for Colombians were heading for “tierra fria”!) as you walk from the 1840 meter-high La Suiza to the 2099 meter-high El Cedral.
Ucumari – El Cedral to La Pastora
El Cedral is where the real trekking begins. Thick vegetation looms all around, dotted with “Palma de Cera” or wax palm, Colombia’s national tree (another endangered species), which can grow in excess of 70 meters in height and can be found as far as the town of Salento in the department of Quindio, in its most famous habitat – the Cocora valley. This valley is one of the many that form a network linking back to Los Nevados.
The road ends here, with a small building where tourists and trekkers can rent a horse for the journey up. If you’re thinking about doing this trek make sure that you bring sturdy boots or shoes to tackle the rocks and boulders, or your feet will take a battering on the way up – be warned! The route continues up along the River Otun, ever smaller, ever wilder, through thick cloud forest and over woodland streams towards the first campsite – La Pastora. Along the way the bird sighting opportunities will be many, if anything Ucumari exceeds Otun-Quimbaya for its diversity and sheer number of birds. When the forest opens up to the Ceilan Valley with its steep walls and cloud-topped slopes, you see an illustration of a cloud forest in its purest sense. In the two hours or so that it takes to get from El Cedral to La Pastora the altitude rises 380 meters and rain is almost a definite.
Ucumari – La Pastora
La Pastora, located at 5.8km from El Cedral and 12.4km from La Suiza, is my first campsite. Sandwiched between forest and steep valley walls, it looms like a beacon of civilization with its red walls and manicured gardens. From here a happy camper can walk the 1.5km to some ice-cold waterfalls named Los Chorros. Unfortunately the large fall that can be seen from the main building – La Veira – is off-limits.
or order food for when you get there, visit the Fecomar website (Spanish only). Make sure that you pack batteries for the camera, there is no electricity here.
The site has no electricity, which can be a blessing or a curse depending on your point of view. The only light to be found during the night – apart from the flash-light of a toilet-searching camper – are in the two communal rooms, one inside the main building and one located in a kiosk in the camping area. A central fireplace, where many a tale can be heard, warms the surrounding lodgers and campers alike.
Both are endangered species and form part of the conservation strategies within the park.
The route continues upwards relentlessly within this immense river basin. At 3,000 meters, with the temperature considerably colder, a grass clearing marks “Peñas Blancas” or “White Rocks.” Weather permitting, large white granite rock faces can be seen where the incline is too steep for plants to grow. Clouds envelop the uppermost reaches where the various waterfalls cascade their pure spring water down these volcanic walls.
Los – to El
NOTE:
Donations should be given, so be generous as this is a good man with a big heart.
There are frequent stories about trekkers picking the wrong path here and getting lost for days. This is a real possibility so keeping your wits is paramount. Even if the clouds don’t let you see where you are, don’t panic!
A devastating fire in 2006 caused by visitor carelessness affected much of the area surrounding the lake, but the area has recuperated remarkably. If I was in awe the first time I visited, then my feeling on my recent trip was one of amazement.
No doubt once you’re back down, relaxing and thinking about the trip over a hot cup of coffee or chocolate and a plate of food, busily trying to recuperate the lost calories, there’ll be a nagging question at the back of your mind – ”when can I go again?”
So if you decide to embark on this trip remember to respect the place that you’re visiting and know that every step leaves a mark. Make sure yours is a clean one.